Sunfinder Vacations

Prinsendam, which in earlier incarnations was called Royal Viking Sun and then Seabourn Sun, joined Holland America's fleet in 2002 and is marketed as the cruise line's "Elegant Explorer." The name is fitting for a ship known for its longer range, exotic itineraries, most notably the 100-plus-day "Grand World Voyages."

Holland America spent $30 million to update and refurbish the ship, built in 1988, when it took it over from Seabourn in 2002. Additions included a new alternative restaurant, a Lido buffet restaurant, an Internet Cafe, a new volleyball/basketball court, a "virtual reality" golf simulator, a revamped entertainment lounge, a dedicated smoking room, and 14 additional staterooms, bringing the Prinsendam's total passenger capacity to 793.

Holland America hired the ship's original architect, Sweden-native Tomas Tillberg, to reconfigure the Prinsendam's public spaces, and brought in Frans Dingemanns of the Netherlands to showcase an impressive collection of original artwork. The abundance of genuine wood paneling, hardwood flooring, and chrome and brass accents gives the ship a decidedly Old World feel that is perhaps the ship's biggest draw.

Ultimately, Prinsendam exudes a cozy, slightly worn-in warmth that manages to provide a wonderfully soothing backdrop for travelers, particularly when sailing to some of the world's most exotic -- and potentially challenging -- ports of call. For that reason, cruise traditionalists of any kind will feel quite at home on the ship.

While Prinsendam has the usual range of staterooms and suites -- inside, outside and verandah categories are represented -- they are typically a bit smaller than those on the line's newer ships. Some of the staterooms are irregularly shaped, a quaint vestige of a ship design that predates today's identical staterooms, which are installed as pre-built modular units.

The ship has a 38 percent ratio of cabins with balconies, which is a low number these days. Then again, it's important to note that Prinsendam was built a good decade before balconies became a common feature. If you prefer balcony cabins, it's best to book early, as staterooms with verandas sell out quickly.

Many cabin categories on the Prinsendam feature walk-in closets. And, a good number of even the smallest-sized cabins have generous bathrooms, with full-length tubs, upgraded fixtures and color schemes. Another nice touch: the line offers single cabins, which means passengers traveling solo are not forced to book a double stateroom (and pay the extra surcharge).

Suites, of course, offer additional amenities, including separate sleeping and living areas, curved sofas with large coffee tables, and longer verandahs. The bathrooms on Superior Verandah Suites feature large tubs and sinks connected by a door to a separate room holding a toilet and sink. This ingenious design certainly eases the "getting ready for dinner" rush. Holland America has built some special garden villa cabins out onto the Promenade's Aft Deck; these "lanai" cabins have semiprivate terraces, surrounded by glass. Passengers who book these cabins have sole use of this particular aft area's amenities, which include tables for al fresco dining and a whirlpool.

The Prinsendam is one ship where it really does pay to splurge on more expensive accommodations. Higher priced digs come with use of the Neptune Lounge, which occupies a lovely space, featuring stained glass insets -- not to mention all-day coffee, tea and snack services, newspapers, a private library with books and games and an excellent selection of Lonely Planet guidebooks. The Neptune Lounge also has its own verandah -- it runs right up to the edge of the Bridge.

Prinsendam doesn't offer the plethora of options of some of today's megaships, but the personal service, ambiance, and attention to details (such as special decorations on holidays) more than make up for it.

The LaFontaine Dining Room is the centerpiece of mealtime. Totally reconfigured from the two-tiered space that existed on the ship under the Seabourn flag, the dining room has been downsized and is centered on one deck. It features wraparound windows with fabulous views and Holland America's usual elegant Rosenthal china and white linens. Cut glass chandeliers and sconces in the shape of flower blossoms complete the decoration. There are two seatings and table mates are assigned. LaFontaine has just a handful of tables for two.

The Lido Restaurant is open for casual breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It features a broad assortment of entrees, many cooked to order. Sandwiches and individually baked pizzas are made to order as well. It's a pleasant change from the steam-tray warmed fare on the buffet lines of other ships. We did notice that the Lido's dining area can seem a bit claustrophobic because of its low ceilings, so here's a tip -- just outside are a number of lovely tables that sit on the aft deck under a tented cover. As with other Lido Restaurants on Holland America ships, crew members are on hand to carry trays and fetch drinks.

Another casual option at lunchtime is the Terrace Grill, near the midship pool, which offers a convenient menu of burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches, and French fries.

The 52-seat Pinnacle Grill at the Odyssey, the ship's swank alternative restaurant, is gorgeous. Wood paneling, accented with graceful columns, embraces guests as they ease into sumptuous, undulating upholstered banquettes. Meals are served on Bulgari china. The restaurant's menus feature mostly Northwest-inspired cuisine, such as Chicken Thai soup, Dungeness crab legs, grilled salmon, and duck breast with pickled Walla Walla onions, among others. Chefs will also cook up the basics -- filet mignon, lamb chops and cioppino are always offered, along with delectable cuts of porterhouse and ribeye steaks. There is a $15 per person charge to eat at the Pinnacle Grill.

Special food-related events offered on every cruise include both Dutch- and Indonesia-themed dinners, and the Royal Dutch Tea. On the Grand World Voyage, add to these an array of themed dinners that coincide with the various exotic ports of call, as well as with holidays such as St. Valentine's Day and St. Patrick's Day.

Room service is available 24 hours a day. Passengers with special dietary needs are asked to advise Holland America about these needs at the time of booking.

The ship's main theater, the Queen's Lounge, received a major facelift during the 2002 renovations. The 424-seat theater now showcases a rebuilt stage, and the latest in high-tech lighting and acoustics.

Other Holland America stalwarts are represented on Prinsendam, too. We always love the Ocean Bar; on Prinsendam, it's situated in the center of the ship's main public deck and so offers fabulous people-watching, just about any time. The Bar's blue leather banquettes are tucked under windows facing the Promenade, and its brushed chrome banisters are curved like waves upon the sea. The Ocean Bar is a cozy location for taking in a shipboard seminar, or meeting friends for drinks. There's a bandstand and dance floor, as well.

The Explorers Lounge, another Holland America tradition, is another impressive space, featuring mahogany-stained wooden walls, old fashioned (the thick kind) venetian blinds covering the windows, and leather armchairs with seats just long -- and wide -- enough to encourage passengers to tuck in and get lost in a great book (or stimulating conversation).

The art collection for auctions has its own boutique, and it's a lovely, wood-paneled space with windows fronting the promenade deck. The ship also features a very sleek and well-equipped Internet Cafe, offering laptop computer rentals and access to wireless Internet connections.

The Prinsendam includes a version of the Java Cafe, the coffee bar found on other Holland America ships. The Cafe serves cappuccino and espresso at no extra charge. The Cafe is adjacent to the casino, which may be one of the smallest we've seen on a mid-sized ship. It is nonetheless elegant, with wood paneled walls and offers basic gaming and slots. We were amused to find some 10-cent slot machines.

The Oak Room's dark wood walls, leather furnishings and (fake) fireplace are reminiscent of the stodgy gentlemen's clubs of yesteryear. Women are cheerfully admitted in this smoker's lounge, however. Other public room highlights include the Erasmus Library and the Half Moon (card and game) area. Holland America's signature Crow's Nest observation lounge is featured topside. A grand piano sets the tone for the evening entertainment here, which is low-key and traditional -- though at times raucous, depending upon the crowd.

Onboard activities during the day include the usual assortment of port lectures, art auctions, trivia contests and such. The excitement level gets ratcheted up a bit on the Grand World Voyage, where you can expect elaborate scavenger hunts, cooking, painting classes, and dance classes. At night, the ship really hums, with music performances (from dance trios to pianists to ensemble quartets) in its lounges, to mega-spectacular shows in the Queen's Lounge. The Filipino and Indonesian crew members take great pride in hosting a show of their native song and dance, usually once per cruise.

The Wajang Theater offers movies on a daily basis, accompanied by free popcorn.

Let's just say this: The spa on Prinsendam is gorgeous. Run by Steiner, Ltd., it's decorated in an elegant Greco-Roman theme, featuring graceful columns and beautiful hand-painted murals. The spa itself offers the usual services (massages, body wraps, facials) as does the adjacent Beauty Salon. The facility will become a Greenhouse Spa (also run by Steiner) as part of Holland America's fleet-wide "Signature of Excellence" initiative, a $225-million, two-year enhancement program. The fitness facility on Prinsendam is small but adequate. Fitness classes are held on a daily basis. A nice interesting touch in the fitness area is a mini-fridge stocked with chilled towels for those who have overheated during workouts.

The pool on the aft deck is suitable for lap swimming, a relative rarity on cruise ships these days. Beyond the aft pool, the ship's main pool area is a hub on sunny days and has a swim-up bar. Other recreational opportunities include the golf simulation center, the walking track, and the ever-so-slightly smaller-than-regulation tennis court.

One of the most enjoyable features of the ship is its quarter-mile promenade, located on deck seven. This broad expanse of genuine teak wood is an unobstructed walkway, perfect for leisurely strolls, star gazing, or relaxing on wood loungers.

The ship offers "Club Hal" children's programming, with staff counselors onboard the majority of sailings. This is not an ideal ship for children, however, nor are the longer and generally more exotic itineraries conducive to family cruising.

Prinsendam typically attracts older, well-traveled passengers in the 60-plus range.

Holland America Line has recently changed its "tipping not required" policy. Beginning in April 2004, Holland America will add cabin and wait staff gratuities of $10 per person, per day to all shipboard accounts. Passengers may adjust these gratuities at any time during the cruise by contacting the front desk. In addition, a 15 percent service charge will be added to each beverage order.

Plan for two formal nights per cruise; other nights the dress code is "country club casual."

• Cruise line - Holland America
• Ship name - Prinsendam
• Type of cruise - Elegant
• Passenger capacity - 794
• Decks - 8
• Total cabins - 398
• Private balcony cabins - 151
• Total crew - 443
• Year entered service - 1988
• Tonnage - 38000
• Officers nationality - Dutch/European
• Ship size - Midsize
• Registry - Netherlands
• Ship length - 673

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