Sunfinder Vacations

Writer Eric Amrine based this independent review on his 7-night Western Caribbean cruise departing from Tampa, Florida.

Launched in early 2004, Carnival Miracle still boasts the impeccable sparkle and shine of a brand new vessel. Miracle reflects an avid appreciation for subtlety, fine art, and sophisticated tastes, with vibrant modern artwork and blown glass decorating the indoor promenades and stairwell landings. She also retains the bright neon lighting fixtures found on all Carnival ships. Lounges and hallway seating areas draw crowds to lounge comfortably in plush easy chairs or fanciful seats by artfully framed windows looking out to sea. But don't forget about her fun side. Nary a day goes by with some tropical festivity by the pool, and passengers making the most of their sunny Western Caribbean vacations. This is a “fun ship,” after all.

Why Carnival Miracle?

• Sound of music: Miracle is peppered with awesome musicians from stem to stern. Without exception, the lounge piano players, orchestra pit musicians, and rock and jazz guitarists are clearly born to perform.
• Pleasant shock of the new: Sailing on Miracle compares to the thrill of riding in a new car. You’ll have to look hard for any sign of wear and tear, which says a lot for a ship that welcomes more than 2,000 passengers each week.
• Sunny destinations: Each week, Miracle calls on Grand Cayman, a shopper’s haven; Belize City, an emerging ecotourism launch pad; Costa Maya, a Yucatan port built near a small fishing village; and Cozumel, Mexico’s largest island and world-class party locale.

Who should go
Almost all passengers are from the U.S. or Canada. The average age is around 40, with an equal representation of children and senior citizens on either side. Those who prefer efficient and relaxed service, informality, and a laissez faire approach to the passing of time will generally enjoy life onboard.

Who shouldn’t go
Those that have no patience with mass market cruise ships should stay far away. Even though Miracle’s décor sometimes borders on the elegant and refined, the sheer volume of foot traffic and low brow organized deck activities may alienate or even offend upper crust tastes.

Heard on the deck: “I’m so impressed by so many genuinely nice crew and staff with very friendly smiles.”

Hits and misses

• Don’t miss: The official bar hopping event -- even if you don’t drink, it’s fun to watch and follow the crowd stumbling from one ship lounge to another. Plus, you get Mardi Gras beads just for attending.
• Best part of the ship: The spa, gym, and salon offer a supremely invigorating variety of “R&R” treatments. Some, including the sauna and marvelously hot steam bath, are complimentary.
• Best experience: A meal at specialty restaurant Nick and Nora’s stimulates the culinary endorphins like nowhere else on the ship. It’s worth every penny of the extra cost.
• Best shipboard activities: Passenger talent night -- a karaoke event with the humorous moniker of “Miracle Idol.”
• Needs improvement: It’s a trying job, but the Purser’s Desk staff should work on providing information that’s clear, concise, and correct, with a friendlier delivery.
• Activities to skip: Unless you are a dyed-in-the-wool TV game show fan, the at-sea versions of Family Feud and the Newlywed Game inspire and entertain only those on stage participating, or their families.

How to meet the captain
The Captain’s Cocktail Party is held in the spacious Phantom Lounge on the first formal night. Here, the orchestra kicks into high gear after all the formal introductions of senior officers and staff, with passengers ballroom dancing as the wait staff bring endless trays of complimentary champagne, wine, and spirits. Passengers can shake the captain’s hand and have a brief moment to converse with him upon exit. For those cruisers who are returning Carnival patrons, a similar event includes a chance to meet him in a smaller venue. There’s no dining at the captain’s table -- he doesn’t keep one.

Bacchus
Romanesque statues greet diners at the door of Bacchus, Miracle’s main restaurant. Waiters in vests and tuxedos treat diners with dignity and professional grace, presenting artistically laid-out appetizers, soups, and entrées. Bacchus does very well with creative dishes inspired by French, Italian, and Greek cuisine, many made with beef filet or sirloin, rack of lamb, chicken, or seafood. Vegetarian entrées are also available, as are a variety of exotic desserts. Bacchus is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, seating guests at tables for two, four, six, or eight.

Horatio’s
Uniformed sentries line the walls of Horatio’s, a beehive of eateries occupying almost half of Lido Deck. The outdoor buffet handles burgers and fries, and the enormous Mexican buffet on one evening. Inside, Horatio’s serves all meals plus a late-night bistro buffet for anyone choosing not to dine at Bacchus. Lunches and dinners frequently mirror at least one of the main dining room’s entrées (like sliced sirloin, seafood Newburg, or roast turkey), plus exciting side dishes like French country soup with pistou, salmon roulade with kalamata tapenade, and chicken wings with garlic sauce. Steam-table quality does not reach main dining room standards, but it suffices for a quick and filling meal for those on the go. Until 11 PM, guests can pick up tasty wraps and decent New York deli sandwiches, and the pizza counter operates all night. Soft-serve ice cream and frozen yogurt machines never stop pumping either. Several beverage machine stations dispense coffee, tea, punch, and lemonade at all times.

Heard on the deck: “That’s not New York cheesecake by any means. No way. Not that there’s anything wrong with it. It’s still really good, and I think I’ll have some more.”

Nick and Nora’s
Atop the atrium lies Nick and Nora’s gourmet supper club, inspired by characters from Dashiell Hammett’s The Thin Man. No matter what entrée you choose -- Maine lobster, prime beef, lamb, veal, or a vegetarian special -- you can't go wrong, and your friendly server will always bring more than you ordered. Desserts are visual feasts as well as tasty treats, so leave room in your suit. The $25 surcharge is a fraction of what any comparable restaurant would charge.

Other dining options

• Sushi cart: A cordial sushi chef rolls and slices daily selections of complimentary sushi, from ahi tuna to smoked scallops to fresh vegetable rolls. Soy sauce, pickled ginger, and hot wasabi are self-serve.
• Room service: Room service is complimentary but the choices cannot compete with the myriad offerings at Horatio’s. It’s still a great option for snacks, continental breakfast, and nights you feel like staying in. Food is free, but tipping a dollar or two is expected.
• Midnight gala buffet: Offered once per cruise, the gala buffet is a highlight for many passengers. Arrive early for viewing the layout of the chef’s specialty beef and seafood dishes, artfully arranged appetizers, and enormous selection of cakes, tarts, chocolate mousse, and rum balls too tempting to ignore.

Best dining

• Dish: Bacchus’s sliced chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce arrives succulent and perfectly cooked as ordered -- no small miracle considering the kitchen prepares over 2,000 meals each night.
• Dessert: The flourless chocolate cake tastes as rich and creamy as a dense and fudgy mousse. A small pitcher of custard sauce completes the picture, and widens the waistline.
• Restaurant: Hands down, Nick and Nora’s deserves its Deck 12 perch, high above and beyond all other dining opportunities below.

How to…

• Get a table for two: Bacchus has several tables for two, the best ones lining the railing that overlooks the restaurant’s lower level. If you prefer a two-top but end up with a large group, check with the maître d’ to see about moving. Tables for two are generally available at Nick and Nora’s.
• Celebrate a birthday or anniversary: Simply ask your head waiter on the fly or consult the maître d’ in advance of your celebration. “Happy Birthday” sung by a largely Eastern European wait staff can playfully sound like a Baltic drinking song, making the event that much more fun.
• Change seating: If you want to change times or tables you must ask the maître d’ at Bacchus if he can relocate your party. For a one-time change, take the opportunity to dine at Nick and Nora’s, or buffet-style at Horatio’s.
• Dress for formal night: Men wear dark suits or coats and ties, a minority opting for tuxedos or slightly upgraded casual attire. For women, the cocktail dress is the clear favorite, in silk, taffeta, or sequins.
• Dress for casual night: Women have more freedom to interpret resort casual with style and flair. For men, anything but T-shirts, shorts, and sandals seems to make the grade.

Tips:

• • Keep an eye out for Horatio’s occasional Indian-influenced cuisine. It’s one of the better menu items and usually comes with a very acceptable tamarind chutney sauce.
• Eating organic or vegan? Make arrangements ahead of time and the Miracle chefs will prepare exclusive meals to accommodate those with special dietary restrictions.
• Miracle fills the lower level of Bacchus first, so some tables on the upper floor may never fill. If you don’t like where you’re situated, ask to move to a table with a better view.
• Can’t decide what to order? Choose two entrées -- your waiter won’t bat an eyelash.

Cabins provide more square feet on average than what you’ll find on many cruise ships. The standard oceanview cabin includes handsome cabinetry and ample storage (specifically, a closet with three units for hangers and/or shelving for clothing). Additionally, a vanity/desk unit with ottoman and chair lies below a large pleasantly lit mirror. At the end of a bar area, more cubby holes allow for smaller items. A comfortable couch and moveable table finish the picture-perfect design, and tasteful artwork adorns the walls. Bedside, soft reading lights create softer moods when the day winds down. Roomy bathrooms have first-rate fixtures and glass shelving, and the modern chrome hardware and real tiling balance out the functional design elements. Thick, plush comforters combine with quite comfortable twin or queen-size beds to ease you into slumber on the seas.

Cabins for guests with disabilities
Miracle makes every effort to accommodate disabled guests. All public areas are accessible by elevator -- even major parts of Sports Deck. Cabins with balconies for the disabled do not pose any challenge; however, the hallways do not have railings. And while most entrances and doorways include ramps, some of them have high jams that pose access obstacles.

Heard on the deck: “They clean my room twice a day, every day, even though I’m only in my room but once!”

Tips:

• Save on fares by booking an oceanview cabin with French doors instead of a balcony. You’ll still be able to open them up to take in the fresh air.
• The cruise line includes a prepaid minimum tip for the steward (and restaurant wait staff) in the basic fare, but the amount can be adjusted.
• If you prefer to sleep in, don’t forget to post a Do Not Disturb sign on your outside doorknob. Otherwise, you will be greeted unexpectedly with a gentle knock and an early but cheerful “good morning.”

Musical acts predominate Miracle’s entertainment, with classical trios, lone pianists or guitarists, and jazz duos playing their hearts out for all comers. The main atrium stretches 11 stories, and the casino takes up a good portion of Deck 2’s real estate. Most public rooms appear along the Deck 2 and Deck 3 promenade. Navigating public areas without failure takes days to perfect -- having two vast decks of public space makes getting to know Miracle that much more challenging. Still, it’s a joy to have so many places to explore, and chances are you’re only one deck above or below what you’re looking for.

Bars, lounges, and casino
Miracle houses over a dozen bars and lounges. At the bottom of the ship is Frankenstein’s Lab, a late-night dance and deejay mecca. Higher up, Macguire’s appeals to the sports fan as a score of TVs feature the live games of the week. Frankie and Johnnies brings in a retro crowd for oldies and dancing, while passengers sing along at Sam’s Piano Bar. A lone rock guitarist/singer entertains patrons of the atrium bar, and a virtuoso jazz guitarist entertains in the smoke-filled Gotham Lounge (the space alone exudes a hip “cool”). Anglophiles flock to Jeeves’s cushy chairs and small tables for tea time, and the Joker provides quiet respite from all the excitement (with several card tables for the bridge set). Mad Hatters Ball hosts art auctions, private parties, R-rated comedy, and, strangely enough, kids’ activities. All bars feature drinks of the day (pay a few dollars more for a souvenir glass).

The casino almost never sleeps, nor do the passengers literally wired to the slot machines during tournaments: Competitors wear their key cards around their necks, and the virtual credit cards slide into the machines, roping customers in for the long haul. It’s quite a sight, as is the suspenseful scene around roulette and blackjack tables. Gambling has become as popular and as accepted as some professional sports; Miracle obliges by dedicating a huge swath of Deck 2 to the cause. An adjacent casino bar musician entertains with pop tunes and light blues.

Heard on the deck (on day 2 of the cruise): “I’ve already spent $400 on drinks, which is all I put on my spending card. What am I going to do for the rest of the week?”

Swimming pools
Miracle’s three main pools attract sun worshippers of all ages, but the pools’ small sizes prevent lap swimming or much hearty recreation. All have hot tubs and shower stations adjacent. If the non-reservable deck chairs fill up, head one flight up to Sun Deck and search for more.

Shows
The Phantom Lounge, the main theatrical venue onboard, leverages icons from both the Phantom of the Opera stage production and the completely unrelated comic strip superhero. High-end sound and light equipment and a top notch orchestra make every show a command performance. Each night, the Phantom Lounge stages two identical productions of stand-up comedy or Vegas-style song and dance reviews by the first-class Miracle Players. The nine-piece orchestra includes a trumpet player who doubles as a lead singer with an uncanny ability to sound exactly like Louis Armstrong. Early risers may want to catch the first show, usually beginning around 8 PM. The cruise director makes a point of titillating the crowd with promises of scantily clad dancers, following the Vegas tradition. Don’t strain your eyes -- it’s strictly PG-13.

Shore excursions
The Carnival Web site allows pre-booking of shore excursions, which eliminates the hassle of waiting in typically long lines to sign up. Depending on the port, expect to find at least a dozen opportunities for recreation or historical sightseeing.

Heard on the deck (from a 10-year-old, after rappelling down a limestone cliff face in a Belizean tropical storm): “Dad, I’m really ready to get back on the cruise ship.”

Weddings and vow renewals
Prearranged onboard wedding packages begin at $750 and include the cake, bridal bouquet, champagne, and more. Couples are wed by an officiating officer, but it won’t be the captain -- weddings at sea rarely have the captain presiding these days. More elaborate wedding programs may include select island locations while the ship is in port, but you need to ensure such packages apply to your cruise. Alternatively, you may simply hire one of the ship’s photographers to capture a special moment on your own, or purchase a gourmet cake from one of the ship’s dessert cafés and have your waiter serve it for dessert.

Looking for…

• Quietest spot: Gatsby’s Garden, a mock outdoor gazebo-like seating area, is a great place to disappear.
• Liveliest spot: The monstrous mix in the Frankenstein’s Lab deejay booth inspires plenty of unprintable depictions of human behavior on the dance floor.
• Most popular spot: The minute the ship travels far enough from port to satisfy statutes, the casino brings in hordes of gamblers. The din from chatter and slot machines is a sonic assault.
• Best view: The overlook high above Lido Deck allows not only a fine perspective of the sea and horizon, but an excellent sidelong view of the ship forward to aft.
• Best show: Ticket to Ride -- celebrating the Beatles’ emergence on the scene more than 40 years ago.
• Best drink: According to a well-liked bartender, the most popular drinks consist of anything frozen and sweet, made with any combination of rum, vodka, and fruit juice.

Tips:

• Most of the bars and lounges allow cigar and cigarette smoking. If you want smoke-free ambience, visit Jeeves and Mad Hatters, the two smoke-free lounges; or some other smoke-free designated seating areas along the promenades.
• A 15 percent gratuity is added to all beverage orders.
• Towels are not dispensed poolside, so bring one of the large Carnival towels from your cabin. Just be sure to return it for your steward to replace, or you may pay a “lost towel” fee.
• The top deck aft allows topless sunbathing, restricting access to minors and disallowing photographic equipment. It’s also one of the quietest spots on the ship.
• Some ports require both photo IDs and key cards to return to the ship.
• Getting involved always maximizes the good times. Consider joining some of the lounge events, such as Mardi Gras night, or rub elbows at the art auctions and Captain’s Cocktail Party, where you can drink for free.

Spa and salon
It’s easy to look and feel your best at the Venus Salon and Adonis Spa and Gym. The salon is destination central for pedicures, manicures, and good hair management; while the spa’s exotic treatment rooms are no less deluxe, white glove clean, and roomy. The steam rooms are large, powerful, and well maintained. Amazing attention to detail prevails elsewhere in the spa: The slatted wooden light sconce inside the sauna adds a designer touch, and the absolutely mint condition of the room itself impresses and easily inspires deep relaxation. Prices for most treatments hover in the $100 range, depending on how exotic you want to go. The most sought after treatment -- hot stone aroma massage -- arrives with a sales pitch at the end, as do most others. You may also receive a written prescription; i.e., a shopping list of the spa’s oils, creams, or lotions. Take it all in stride: It’s your choice to nod in blissful surrender and pay more money for them, or simply say no.

Fitness areas
The well-stocked modern gym and hot tub occupies about half of the two-story space allotted for the Adonis Spa and Gym. The large space offers plenty of room for the dozen treadmills and half dozen stationary bikes and elliptical trainers. Free weights and weight machines are stashed on one end. Exercise classes are held regularly. Basic aerobics is free, but Pilates and yoga require a fee (generally $10). Early morning brings the largest number of exercisers. If you want to avoid crowds, try working out in the afternoon.

Tips:

• Be sure to reserve your spa treatment on embarkation day in order to find the time best suited for your schedule.
• Save money by looking for daily spa promotions offered in the casino, Internet lounge, or shopping areas. The specials usually refer only to the most exotic, and most expensive, treatments.
• Port days, when most passengers head ashore, are good bets for finding treatment times at the spa.
• Occasionally, free Pilates and yoga classes are offered on a first come, first served basis.

Heard on the deck (late one night, from a passenger noticing someone on the stairs in his bathrobe): “Locked out?”
His response: “No way. I’m heading to the wild bathrobe party on deck.”

Traipse through the Yellow Brick Road, the upscale mall-style environment where shops line both sides of the hallway. Shops mainly sell duty- and tax-free alcohol, tobacco, and jewelry, and inexpensive souvenirs with Carnival Cruise Line and Carnival Miracle logos. They also sell a wide variety of tasteful casual wear and informal recreational clothing -- you could almost pack few clothes and supplement your wardrobe onboard. Carnival Cruise Line guarantees the quality and low prices of jewelry and fine watches sold onboard, as it does for the merchandise sold in preferred retail outlets in port. Expect to be hammered with sales pitches for black coral, attractive gemstones such as topaz and tanzanite, and gold or silver chains sold by the inch.

Heard on the deck (in a Cozumel shop on the pier): “These things all look like they were made in Mexico!”

Tips:

• Planning to buy duty-free alcohol onboard? Keep your eyes peeled for specials that include free bottles of unknown brands when you purchase finer spirits.
• Read the ship newsletter delivered to your room each evening. Special prices and deals are advertised for many shipboard services.
• Unless you have considerable knowledge of how to shop for precious metals, pay attention to the shopping director at seminars offered during the week, or buy at the shops onboard.
• Don’t shop in stores near the pier; or if you do, bargain heavily. The further you walk from the ship, the more the prices drop.

Most Camp Carnival activities -- age-appropriate group games and activities for kids ages 2-11 -- are complimentary. Pinocchio’s Club, the main children’s area, is relatively small, so most organized activities take place in larger spaces such as the Mad Hatters Ball or even the huge Phantom Lounge. Count on a wide range of things kids like to do, from circle games to basketball contests to art projects. The more kids onboard (holidays, summer breaks), the more activities scheduled. Late-night babysitting is also offered, with prices beginning at $6 per child, per hour.

Tips:

• A special treat for kids: The three-story “waterslide” perched above Sports Deck aft. After several curly-qs the slide brings you to a gentle halt on a straightaway.
• Consider leaving your stroller or video games at home and renting gear once you’re onboard the ship (for a one-time fee).
• Babysitting doesn’t begin until 10 PM, but you can start your parent’s night off well before that by signing your child in and asking the staff to handle dinner.

Carnival Miracle sails the Western Caribbean from Tampa, stopping at Grand Cayman, Costa Maya, Cozumel, and Belize.

• Year entered service - 2004
• Cruise line - Carnival Cruise Line
• Ship name - 963
• Passenger capacity - 2124
• Total crew - 934
• Tonnage - 88,500